Build Plan (PDF) — Coming Soon

2. Box Views

A three-view drawing of your box, to scale. The outer figure on each dimension is the external size (what you cut to); the inner figure is the internal size (the air space). Views are aligned in true projection — front and right sit at the same height, front and top share the same width — so you can trace a feature straight between them. Unless the driver or the port is in the top panel, the top view is drawn with the lid lifted off: the grey strips are the walls, cut to the sizes on the cut list, so the port and the driver inside read at a glance.

Baffle and assembled views

The baffle at internal size with the cutouts placed, and a simplified isometric — not a photorealistic render. A sealed or round-port box also gets a picture of it with the top panel off. The live 3D preview in Box Builder is a CSS animation, not a canvas, so it can't be captured as an image; these are drawn to the same numbers it uses.

3. Cut-Sheet

Cut every piece to the sizes in the table, then use the layout below to get them out of the sheet. All cut dimensions are rounded to the nearest 1/16" — the size a tape measure actually reads. That rounding changes the box's net volume by well under a tenth of a percent, which is far smaller than the tolerance your driver's own manufacturer publishes. Measure your sheet before you cut. These sizes are for the thickness in the Material column, and plywood sold as 3/4" is 23/32" (0.72"). A thinner sheet makes the interior wider and deeper and leaves the front too narrow by twice the difference, so enter what you measure as the wall thickness in Box Builder and rebuild.

Sheet layout

Kerf-aware nesting on real 4x8 sheet(s) — the same diagram Box Builder's "Generate Cut-Sheet + 4×8 Sheet Nesting" produces for this build. Each sheet is drawn 96" × 48", with 1/8" left between parts for the saw kerf. MDF sold as "4×8" is usually 49" × 97", which leaves room to square one factory edge first and measure every cut from it. A sheet that is a true 48" × 96" may not leave room for that trim.

4. Assembly Order

5. Bracing & Reinforcement

STRUCTURAL reinforcement: whether THIS box's computed internal dimensions and this driver's power rating call for seam cleats, mid-panel braces or a doubled front baffle, and if so exactly what to cut — decided against rules of thumb, not published maker rules: bracing above roughly 1.8 ft³ or on any unsupported span over 8-12 inches (from a retailer's guide), and a doubled baffle at 500 W RMS (our own shop rule). What the speaker makers do publish are span rules, and they differ: KICKER a cross brace in any span of 12" or more, Rockford a brace in any area over 12" × 24", MTX a tie between opposite walls once a wall spans more than 18". None of them publishes a volume or wattage trigger. Every length here is derived from this build's own interior dimensions and every brace position cleared against this build's real driver cutout, mounting ring, magnet depth and port openings. Where the sources are genuinely a range, or genuinely disagree, this section says so instead of picking one silently. The small acoustic corner fillets are a different technique for a different reason and live in section 6.

6. Corner Treatment (Airflow)

Every internal 90° edge of this box gets a small 45° fillet, on every build — this is not conditional on size, power, or whether section 5 calls for any bracing. It is there so air and sound do not have to turn a hard corner, not to stiffen anything.

7. Hardware & Materials

Full build checklist, cut list, and where-to-buy links (brand-matched to your driver where possible) — the exact same output as Box Builder's "Generate Build Checklist."

8. Amp Settings