Will that speaker fit your door?
Pick your vehicle, your door, and a speaker from the database — component set, coaxial, or standalone tweeter. You get an honest depth check (fits, needs a spacer, or doesn't fit) plus what the vehicle data does and doesn't tell you about tweeter placement.
Coverage is early: most vehicles in the database don't have a measured door depth yet. Locations without real data show up greyed out below with a link to request them — this isn't a guess-filler, it's an honest "not measured yet."
How to measure your door depth
We found no car maker or speaker maker that publishes a step-by-step method for this. This is our procedure, put together from the checks JL, Rockford, Kicker and Morel print in their install manuals and guides.
- Take the door card off. Note whether the factory speaker bolts to the door metal or to the door card, and whether a bracket or ring sits under it.
- Lower the window, then cycle the window through its full travel, all the way down and up, while you watch what moves behind the speaker hole. Rockford and Kicker both say to do this.
- Measure straight back from the surface the speaker's flange sits on to the first thing you hit anywhere inside the magnet's footprint, about 3 to 4" across: the glass at its lowest, the regulator arms or motor, a door beam, wiring, the outer skin. Write down the smallest number. JL lists these as the things to clear.
- Measure the room in front as well, from that same surface forward to the back of the door card grille or pocket. A spacer ring uses this up. Morel says to check it.
- Do the other door. JL notes many cars are not the same side to side.
- Send it in with a Shop Ticket ("Door speaker depth measurement"): the depth, bare or with a bracket (and which one), what stopped you and where the window was, which door, the hole size and screw pattern, and the year, trim and whether the car has premium audio.