What we researched for this specific generation: where an enclosure actually fits, what the factory speakers are, how the factory audio is wired, and which real builds and commercial products exist for it. Confidence badges say how well each figure is sourced — this is research, not manufacturer spec.
Body styles covered: 4-Door Sedan
These are researched envelopes, not a guarantee. Measure your own vehicle — the numbers here tell you what to expect, not what you have.
| Location | trunk, through existing opening |
|---|---|
| Outer bounding box | 38"W x 17"H x 37"/41"D |
| Known obstructions | None documented beyond normal trunk furniture. DESIGN TO 37" OF DEPTH — the paired figure means the space tapers and the source does not say which end is which, so the smaller value is the safe one (catalog-wide rule, now applied across seven vehicles carrying paired depth figures). Even at the conservative figure this is a very large space. |
| Usable volume estimate | 5 ft³ |
Suggested configurations for this vehicle, not prescriptions. Run the numbers in the Box Builder before you buy anything.
| Subwoofers | Powered sub in the trunk — the source's own suggestion for keeping cargo room |
|---|---|
| Box type | powered enclosure |
| Location | trunk |
| Subwoofers | 1x12" or 2x12" sealed |
|---|---|
| Box type | sealed |
| Location | trunk |
| Subwoofers | 2x12" or 1x18" ported — 38"W x 17"H x 37"D is the deepest trunk envelope and supports a large ported build |
|---|---|
| Box type | ported |
| Location | trunk |
Sizes and depths below are what research turned up for this generation. Confirm against your own vehicle before cutting or ordering — trim levels vary.
| Factory speaker size | NOT PUBLISHED by the source, which says only that the stock front door speakers can be replaced with a good variety of aftermarket models and that a component set suits this location. Brackets are needed for some woofers. Confirm the size against a live fitment tool before ordering — this entry will not guess it. |
|---|---|
| Known obstructions | MODIFICATION MAY BE NEEDED: the source states that in some cases you will have to cut or grind material off the speaker, the bracket, or the mounting surface. The door panels are described as tight throughout this car, and releasing the remaining metal clips takes real force. Removal order: pry the door release trim and remove one Phillips screw; pry up the power options switch panel from its front edge, unhook the harnesses, remove it; pry around the bottom and sides to release clips; lift the panel off. The speaker is held by four 1/4" screws. Before reassembly, test the door lock and release operation and check the wiring is not fouling the window. Tools: panel tool, Phillips screwdriver. |
| Adapter bracket needed | Needed for some woofers; may additionally require cutting or grinding |
| Tweeter | Front pillar (A-pillar), one per side. Present regardless of system. |
| Factory speaker size | 5-1/4", secured to the BACK of the door panels. Replace with aftermarket 5-1/4". |
|---|---|
| Known obstructions | A CLEAN BOSE-VERSUS-BASE TELL LIVES HERE: on Bose cars the speaker is held by four 1/4" screws, on base-stereo cars by four 7mm screws. Keep whichever screws you remove — they are what secures the new speakers. Removal: pry off the door release trim, remove one Phillips screw, pry around the sides and bottom to release clips, lift the panel. Test door lock and release operation and check window clearance before reassembly. Tools: panel tool, 7mm socket, ratchet, extension, Phillips screwdriver, 1/4" socket, small flat blade screwdriver. |
| Adapter bracket needed | unconfirmed |
| Factory amp / premium audio | Two systems, both with EIGHT speakers. Base: AM/FM/CD receiver driving 8 speakers, including factory satellite radio. Optional BOSE: AM/FM receiver with a 6-CD changer and an 8-speaker Bose Audio setup. Both single-DIN and double-DIN aftermarket receivers fit with a dash kit. WHAT REPLACING THE RADIO COSTS: factory satellite radio (easily replaced by the new receiver's own), and — depending on which harness and receiver combination you choose — the OnStar voice prompts. The warning chimes are a separate and more serious matter; see known_integration_products. |
|---|---|
| Adding subs without a head-unit swap | Yes, and the source notes upgrading the speakers is worthwhile whether or not you replace the receiver. Keeping the factory radio also sidesteps the chime-retention question entirely. |
| Head unit | No replacement needed |
38"W x 17"H x 37"/41"D — the deepest trunk envelope. The source's own framing is that the DTS is a good car to choose if you want to go big on bass, and also offers the sensible alternative: a smaller powered sub if you would rather keep the cargo room.
Each link opens the tool with this vehicle already selected.
Measure your own vehicle. Trim levels, factory subwoofer options, and mid-generation changes all move these numbers, and a box cut to a researched figure that does not match your truck is wasted wood. Where a badge reads Unconfirmed, treat the value as a starting point for your own measurement, not as an answer.