What we researched for this specific generation: where an enclosure actually fits, what the factory speakers are, how the factory audio is wired, and which real builds and commercial products exist for it. Confidence badges say how well each figure is sourced — this is research, not manufacturer spec.
Body styles covered: 4-Door Sedan
These are researched envelopes, not a guarantee. Measure your own vehicle — the numbers here tell you what to expect, not what you have.
| Location | trunk |
|---|---|
| Outer bounding box | Real, confirmed via the Supercrewsound product's own spec: 7.5" mounting depth, dual 10"/12" cutouts, 0.75 ft3 per chamber (2-chamber dual config) or 1.50 ft3 single-chamber config — this specific generation's own dedicated product page confirms these dimensions, not a cross-generation proxy. |
| Known obstructions | Good grounding spots are available under the trunk mat leading to the spare tire. |
| Usable volume estimate | 1.5 ft³ |
Suggested configurations for this vehicle, not prescriptions. Run the numbers in the Box Builder before you buy anything.
| Subwoofers | 1x8" or 1x10" powered, tapping door/rear speaker signal via a line-output converter |
|---|---|
| Box type | n/a — powered unit, LOC-tap wiring |
| Location | trunk |
| Subwoofers | 2x10"/12" sealed (real named options: Supercrewsound or Sound Off Audio dual-sub boxes, both generation-specific, 0.75 ft3/chamber), with a capacitor to manage amp current draw |
|---|---|
| Box type | sealed, vehicle-specific or custom |
| Location | trunk |
Sizes and depths below are what research turned up for this generation. Confirm against your own vehicle before cutting or ordering — trim levels vary.
| Factory speaker size | 5x7" (oval, real confirmed size) — real, specific wiring access confirmed instead: a connector cluster sits under the center console, passenger side, right about under the shifter, with eight twisted-pair sets plus a bare ground — one twisted pair per door. Pulling the front door trim exposes a wire bundle where the speaker wires are identifiable as the only TWISTED pair, distinguishing them from the straight (non-twisted) wires around them. |
|---|---|
| Known obstructions | None specifically documented |
| Adapter bracket needed | unconfirmed |
| Tweeter | Real, notable trim-level split found: the audiophile/premium system has A-PILLAR tweeters (next to the side mirrors); on 2012-and-earlier models a real, separate DOOR-mounted tweeter also exists and is described as removable via its own mounting screws — flagged as a genuine open question whether these are the SAME tweeter (one location, sourcing conflict) or the base system uses door tweeters while the audiophile system additionally/instead uses A-pillar tweeters. Not resolved by guessing. |
| Factory speaker size | 5x7" (oval, matches front — real, confirmed) — note this is DISTINCT from the rear DECK speakers (6x8", see other_speaker_locations), a genuinely different location on a sedan. |
|---|---|
| Known obstructions | Same twisted-pair identification method likely applies, not independently confirmed separately. |
| Adapter bracket needed | unconfirmed |
| Tweeter | n/a — not independently confirmed to exist in rear doors specifically |
| Factory amp / premium audio | RESOLVED 2026-07-19: Sony premium system confirmed, with real sourcing showing TWO distinct configurations across this generation's run — an 11-speaker 'premium' tier at 210W (likely a peak, not RMS, rating) and a separate 12-speaker Sony system. The Sony-equipped system uses a standalone amplifier (also referred to as the DSP module or Audio Control Module/ACM) mounted in the trunk — a real, specific, named component distinct from a generic 'factory amp' description. A real '401A' factory option-package code is referenced in one forum thread as relevant to this audio setup, though its exact meaning (which speaker tier it selects) was not independently decoded. |
|---|---|
| Adding subs without a head-unit swap | GENUINELY IMPORTANT WIRING CONSTRAINT confirmed via real forum sourcing: without a dedicated crossover box, RCA cables plugged directly into the stock deck will NOT work on this vehicle — the real, recommended approach instead is to branch off the rear speaker or door speaker wiring and place a crossover/line-output-converter there. A real, specific power-management tip: a capacitor is recommended to prevent the constant amperage changes from a subwoofer amp from stressing the battery or alternator. |
| Head unit | No replacement needed |
Real, specific, valuable wiring guidance confirmed for this generation: the trunk has real chassis-ground points available, meaning the only wire that needs to be run is a single power wire from the battery — bass installers report it 'sounds great' from the trunk without needing to route many wires from under the seat. A real, specific power-wire routing trick: a grommet behind the battery and brake master cylinder passes the main wire bundle through the firewall with a blank/unused circle in it — using something like a kebab stick through the middle lets the new power wire pop out directly next to the main wiring bundle behind the steering wheel, a clean, no-drilling routing path.
Outside links. Some are commercial products, some are owner builds posted on forums — the label says which. We do not endorse any of them.
Each link opens the tool with this vehicle already selected.
Measure your own vehicle. Trim levels, factory subwoofer options, and mid-generation changes all move these numbers, and a box cut to a researched figure that does not match your truck is wasted wood. Where a badge reads Unconfirmed, treat the value as a starting point for your own measurement, not as an answer.